Monday, September 24, 2012

Hiking the Red Valley, Magic Carpets, Whirling Dervishes

This morning we left early for another morning hike...this one in the Red Valley, across town from our hiking yesterday. We were joined last evening by Kurt and Ann Kutay, the owners of the company with which we are traveling. They are both charming, down to earth, and good fun (Cody and Cad, they asked about you right off).
The hiking was strenuous, both up and down hill, but we stopped several times to have tea (chai) or juice. At one point we climbed down into an arroyo by ladder...a bit scary. After hiking, we had a wonderful lunch and the visited a carpet shop where we learned about and saw wool dying, spinning and weaving. Of course we were also shown some unbelievable carpets. Several couples in our group bought a carpet...yes we did, but only a very small one that we will have framed at home.
After carpets, we went to a caravanserai, (palace for caravans). In the "olden days" caravanserai were spaced 40 miles apart, the distance a camel could travel in one day. Today, however, we saw a performance of Sufis, or whirling dervishes. Since it was the Turkish poet Rumi, (one of our favorites), who with his son created worship by whirling, we were very interested. The experience was mystical. After the performance, we got to sit with one of the dervishes and ask questions. Deniz interpreted and we learned a great deal. The most important thing we learned about Sufism is that everyone, no matter who or how one worships, is welcome to join in, in the belief that we are one and we are together.
We returned to our house, changed, and enjoyed a fabulous Turkish mezes dinner. Now, we are to be in our van at 5:15a.m. We are going ballooning!!




More fabulous formations.




BB down the ladder




Down goes Pam




Trail marker




Time for tea and Deniz teaches Kurt how to play Backgammon.




Murvaz the tea man's dog, smiling for the camera.




Apple tea for Melinda and John.




Our girl on the move.




Brooke and Craig testing the carpet they eventually bought.




A perk at the carpet store. The owner is Deniz' friend, so Deniz borrowed the motorcycle and I volunteered to go for a rip around town. What a thrill!




It was dark by the time we finished talking with the Sufi...good night to all.
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Location:Cappadocia

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Among the Goreme

Day 3--Walking, hiking, and driving, we will spend two and half days exploring the fairy tale geological formations, rock carved churches and underground cities of early Christians, rural villages producing local products. We will enjoy great foods and wines of the region. Today we visit Uchisar Castle, a natural rock formation of former residences carved out of the soft tuft, and the Goreme Open-Air Museum, a complex of medieval cave churches carved and elaborately painted by Orthodox monks. Overnight Elkep Evi Cave Hotel, a historic boutique cave hotel full of atmosphere built into a stone cliff facade overlooking the town of Urgup.
The stone caves and weirdly carved (by wind and water) formations of this area are breathtaking to see and walk through. A great part of our day was spent hiking through, in between, and among mushroom rocks and gullies. At one point, three of us (Katherine, Brooke, and I) followed our guide through a narrowing gulley through which we eventually had to crawl in order to get out (wow! The flashlight app on the iPhone really came in handy). It was very exciting, but when we got out, Pam, who had walked a higher trail said, "I think that was way too much adventure for one day."
We ended our day with a walk/climb through the Goreme open air museum. "Goreme" means "the unseen," which was what these ancient Christians hoped to be in their hidden community of caves. Inside the caves are paintings and frescoes with Christian symbols and images of the Holy Family, Jesus, disciples, and the events of Christ's life. When Muslims came through the area, displacing the Christians, faces and eyes in the paintings were scratched out, as it is forbidden in the Muslim religion to represent the human face in a religious image. From the museum we raced to a hilltop for a quick and lovely sundowner (reminiscent of Africa) of red wine and nuts after which we returned to our own caves for dinner and sleep.
Today we awoke to the sight of 20 or 30 balloons on the horizon. I think we go to a Turkish bath,or hamam, later on, with more hiking and other surprises. Tomorrow is our ballooning day! From this beautiful day, along with friends Cody and Cad we remember their beloved dog Bailey and send love and comfort from this place where the ancients feel ever present.




Our new house




Hiking through magnificent rock
































Good morning and so long for now!
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Location:Urgup, Capadocia

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Day 2 Istanbul

It is 1:15 a.m. And I am determined to send out this blog as we fly to Cappadocia in the morning. I am not sure when we will have internet connections again. Our morning started with quite a surprise. We left our hotel after breakfast "en gang," marching like ducklings after Deniz through thickening traffic. The temperature was about 70 degrees and stayed that way throughout the day. After 10 minutes we stopped at a local cafe that appeared not to be open, but a waiter appeared, we ordered tea, coffee, or water, Deniz began drawing, and two hookas, or nargiles, as water pipes are called here, appeared at our table. Deniz stopped drawing and said, "now, I will teach you how to smoke." The aroma was soft and wonderful. Deniz inserted a fresh mouthpiece in the pipe and began to draw on the smoke. "Now, who will try." Pam was sitting next to Deniz. "I will," she said...inserted her mouthpiece and began to toke away like a pro. We all tried, but I believe Deniz, Pam, and I enjoyed the pipe the best as the three of us passed the pipe back and forth as Deniz gave us an amazing lesson in Turkish history.
Our itinerary from the day says: Explore the grandeur of one of the world’s most important historical cities, Istanbul. We visit a selection of splendid relics of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, including the Blue Mosque, the Roman Hippodrome, Topkapi Palace and, if time permits, the Kapali Carsi (covered bazaar). Time permitted and we bought spices, tea and a candy called Turkish Delight. Around sunset we hopped onto a commuter ferry, joining local Istanbullis as they returned home from work--a journey that reveals palaces, lavishly restored Ottoman homes and embassies on both the European and Asian sides of the Bosphorus. We had a wonderful dinner at a traditional Turkish fish restaurant.
We were out from 7:45 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. It was an amazing day. In addition to what the itinerary indicated, we visited the underground cisterns that honeycomb the ground beneath Istanbul-- a walled city, which we didn't really understand until today. Cisterns provided the city with reliable water when it was under attack. Many buildings are sitting on the ruins of ancient Roman structures. Many of the mosques were first Christian churches or vice versa. "Wherever we dig in Turkey, we discover history," says Deniz. "In great part, the history of the Ottoman empire is the history of all of us as people." Fascinating. I will leave you with a few unforgettable images...and it's off to sleep for me. We love to hear from you, so send us a line. Jeanne, we love the Lucy pics!
BB




Pam enjoying the nargile




Ahhhh...




Fresh pomegranates on a street vendor's cart.




The Ayasophia..."why two mosques across from one other? Just a man thing," says Deniz. "To prove my thing is bigger than your thing!"




The Blue Mosque across the way.




The group with the Bosphorus and the Asian part od Istanbul in the background...Istanbul sits both in Asia and in Europe.




Partially uncovered frescos from a former Christian time in the Ayasophia, a mosque.




One of the Medusa heads on the bottom of a column in the cisterns.




Muslim men washing before going in to the mosque for evening prayer.




Topkapi spice market.




Taking a rest and some quiet time in the "new mosque" --it's only 500 years old.




A new mosque being built near the water--on the ferry as we motored toward dinner.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Turkey

Istanbul -- Day 1

We arrived safe and sound in Istanbul on Friday. After a short nap and a shower, we met our group. Amazingly, two of the people are from Boulder and said immediately, do you know Lyn and Kristi? We were blown over. Yes, they are our neighbors and good friends. The group is nice...we are eight and our guide, Deniz. After intros and some tea, we headed out to do a survey tour that included The Blue Mosque, Ayasophia...and here is how our tour is described in our itinerary:
In the late afternoon (5:00) meet with your guide and stroll through the streets of the Old City to get oriented to the smell of Turkish coffee and shisha smoked in nargiles (waterpipes) in local cafes. Walking among shops and outdoor markets, we make our way to a local open-air terrace restaurant for dinner and an authentic introduction to Turkish cuisine. The restaurant has a commanding view overlooking the Bosphorus, Golden Horn, and Galata Tower with minarets and mosque domes dominating the skyline with the Bosphorus bridge in the distance. You know you have arrived! Overnight at the Senatus Hotel in the heart of the old city.
I am going with canned words here as my blogging app malfunctioned and it has taken me two days to get it going again. So, we had a great dinner. The views were spectacular and both Pam and I tasted the local drink, raki, and enjoyed it! Here are some pics from our first day...

Strolling through a street market

Ayasophia from the square

The Blue Mosque

Pic I snapped of some dignatary. The car was surrounded by guys with ear plugs. As I took the pic the woman in the front passenger seat rolled her window down, pointed to me and said something seemingly angry to the ear phone guy nearest. Uh oh! My Bad...fortunately no arrest!

View from our restaurant window.
I'll try one more short blog for day two...
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Location:Turkey


Saturday, August 18, 2012

Many Stories--One Week in August







LE'CHAYIM!

A toast...To Life! This week has been all about life and death, remembering and being grateful for friends, family, and living.  Last Saturday morning, our friend Lyn told us to go to the Visitor's Center in town and look for the nest of new barn swallows.  What a treat.  The little ones look like the Marx brothers putting up a constant racket demanding food and attention.  The overworked parents are beautiful and an amazement to watch.  While we were there, a shuttle bus driver told us that a bald eagle was hanging out on Fish Creek Road by the lake.  As we turned onto Fish Creek, the eagle soared low over the lake and right in front of our car to land in a nearby tree.  We spent a good deal of time with this splendid fellow also.  You can check out the birds and other images from this blog on the link below.

August 11 was the one year anniversary of the death of our dear friend, Rich Tracy.  At the invitation of his family, we set out to do something to honor and remember him.  With friends Teri Rodgers and Lee Kennicke, Pam and I decided to climb Twin Sisters and be on or near the summit at sunrise.  That night as I drifted off to sleep I heard a pack of coyotes yipping and crying under the blue-black night sky.  Hours later, just before getting up at 2:30, I thought I heard them once again.  

The four of us left the Twin Sisters trail head at 3:30 under a crescent moon.  We hiked steadily until we came out above tree line.  We looked across to Long's Peak where in the dark, to our amazement, we saw a line of  flashlights held by hikers going for the summit.  A bit later, the sun began to push orange, yellow, and red ahead of itself, along the horizon.  We walked on over the now granite trail until we could see the top of the sun as it rose.  We stopped to remember Rich, revel in the spectrum of sun colors, and take pictures.  In 30 minutes we reached the summit.  The jagged granite rock was bathed in glorious light.  We rested in the quiet and then each of us wrote something for Rich on a small piece of paper which individually, we pushed into different cracks in rocks where we sheltered.  Teri brought a copy of Thich Nhat Hanh's Peace is Every Step, one of Rich's favorite books.  As we sat thinking of Rich, Pam read:  "...We know that if our heart stops beating our life will stop...but consider the other things outside of our own body...Look at the immense light we call the sun.  If it were to stop shining the flow of our life would also stop...so the sun is our second heart...there is no phenomenon in the universe that does not intimately concern us..."  We drank chai, rested and then, as the sun turned from gold to white, we began our descent as the world below woke to the morning and went about its business.

About two weeks ago, Lucy woke us with fierce barking.  Downstairs, we looked out our windows to find a tiny bear cub (about Lucy-sized) up in the tree that holds our bird feeder.  The mom was crouched on the ground below as she had already ripped the feeder from its fastener.  Unconcerned, the baby stayed put.  Once we heard the mom growl softly.  We thought the cub to be very little for this time of year, and that the mom was unusually quiet about her little one.  Perhaps a late cub to a new mom, we thought.  We went back to bed.  Lucy barked again, the bears wandered off.  Now, bring yourselves back the THIS Sunday, late afternoon.  We got an email from friend Lyn.  She had stopped along Fish Creek Road to see what people were looking at.  An animal sighting for sure, she thought.  What she found was a mother bear, graaring and whoofling from the bank of the creek while two men pulled a small cub from the water.  The cub died very shortly thereafter and was taken off to "the Bear Lady" in town where a necropsy could be performed.  Lyn went to speak to "Bear Lady" who thought, on initial inspection, the cub had died of wounds received from a coyote attack.  We think the little cub was the same one who was in our tree, and perhaps the coyotes I heard the night/morning before were the same ones who attacked the little one.

Several days later we went to visit Teri and Nora Lee (who is 3 now) where they were camped in Rocky.  Afterward, we drove up Bear Lake Rd to show Mare all of the construction work going on.  As we drove, we came upon a beautiful bull elk...fresh out of velvet with blood still on his antlers.  He was having a fine evening, munching on green grass which he was kind enough to open wide his mouth and show us as we drove by.  Further on, we met a flock of wild turkeys...all in an evenings ride!

The next day we gathered at Cody and Cad's home for our annual Lebanese feast.  Cad is half Irish, half Lebanese and she and Cody have been kind enough each year to put together a delicious dinner straight out of Cad's childhood.  It is always a treat and sooo delicious.  We ate at tables on their deck and stopped eating, drinking, talking, and laughing only long enough to photograph a magnificent sunset.  For two weeks we've had a good deal of smoke in Estes Park...carried to us on the wind from fires in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Northern California...a painful reminder of how we started the summer.  The only good thing about this smoke is the beautiful sunsets and sun- rises it creates.

Friday we went off to work in the Park.  It was a quiet morning after what had been a hectic week for rangers and rescue staff.  On Tuesday alone, we learned, there were six rescues performed:  two requiring lift-outs by helicopters, one that required rescuers to climb to Broadway on Long's Peak to lower two hikers who, in the dark, inadvertently (?) followed the flashlights of two technical climbers who were going to climb the face of Long's.  By the time the hikers got to Broadway (a narrow ledge part of the way up the face), they realized they had made a very bad mistake they couldn't correct.  One other rescue involved sending a Hasty Team (rescuers with a stretcher) up to Lake Haiyaha to bring down a hiker with a broken leg.  We're happy to say, our shift remained quiet throughout.  There was one very funny story, however that I'd like to share with you.  For the past several years a form of rock climbing called bouldering has become very popular.  This involves climbing rock without ropes.  As a safety measure, boulderers carry large crash pads on their backs to wherever they are climbing.  Visitors are always curious about what these large "mattresses" are.  Last year I was near a fellow carrying one of these pads when a visitor said, "Say, what IS that thing on your back?"  The fellow, without pausing or hesitating said, "M'am, this is an elk saddle."  The visitor turned to me and said, "Whaaa?  Really?"  I said, "Yes, we give five permits a week," then we looked at one another and laughed and I explained what they were.  This week, a visitor who was out hiking ran into one of the crash pad-carrying boulderers and asked the usual question..."What IS that?"  The climber stopped and said, "M'am, this is a moose grooming station.  We open the pad and moose come to us.  They lie down on the pad and then we comb them, pick ticks off, brush their teeth and then smack them on the butt.  They hop up and run off."  The visitor was overcome with joy that Rocky was treating these animals so well and that we actually had young people out in the field caring for the animals.  When she got back to the trail head, she went to the ranger kiosk and asked for a report form.  "What would you like to report, m'am?" the ranger asked.  The woman explained what she had seen and was eager for the Park Superintendent to know what a great service she thought this was.  Trying to keep a straight face, the ranger gave her a form and watched her fill it out.  As the lady walked out into the parking lot, the ranger and volunteers succumbed to a fit of the giggles and carefully filed the report in the circular file.

We finished our week by having dinner at Lee and Mare's.  Lee's sister Elvon and brother-in-law Don are visiting, so Brandy (D & E's oldest son), Liz (his partner), Becca (Brandy's middle daughter) and Tommy Caldwell (her husband--who is a world famous big wall climber [he has set many "firsts" on El Capitan in Yosemite]) all came to enjoy good food and a lot of laughs.  

And that was our week.  Le'chayim!  Treasure each moment in the day...it is all we really have, for yesterday is done and tomorrow will bring what it will...And so it goes in the mountains as summer begins to turn its face to fall.


Here are some pictures from this past week:

Sunday, August 12, 2012

We're Back!

We're back and we have a new look.

The summer is slip-sliding away.  It's hard to believe it's August and most of the country is (according to our Illinois family and visitors to Rocky) burning up. After a fiery start to the summer the dry, blistering heat is giving way to the monsoon rains and feel of early autumn.  If you wonder what we've been up to, here's a summary:

Fire Danger:  Still high, but the ground beneath our feet is no longer as crunchy and vegetation is green rather than dead and dying brown.  Most of the fire bans in our area have been lifted, but when we drive into the Park, the fire danger is still listed as high.

Visitors:  We've had a lot of company this summer...all of it entertaining and fun.  Our time with the Marks (Mark, Olivia, and Daric) was too short--although we managed to pack a good deal of activity into a week--Hiking, fire patrol duty, squirrel busting, horseback riding, Jeeping, and time with Lee and Mare.  The Leifs (Gail, Leif, Laine, Brady, and Ryder) were here in July also.  We had the pleasure of going on the Gamrath's first, official family hike to Dream Lake.

Travel: Our summer started with a 10 day trip to Minnesota/North Dakota where we attended the memorial services for  Lee's mom who died in December, 2011.  We had a great time with Don and Elvon (Lee's bro-in-law and sister), Brandy, Liz, Becca, Tommy, Will, Sarah, and Katie.  We left Don and Elvon's after great eating and lots of laughs and remembrances.  On the trip home, we spent three days at Custer State Park with Lee and Mare.  Almost as good as Africa for animal viewing and a gift to be able to spend time together.  We were back in Estes Park for 12 hours, and Pam and I took off for California for a commitment ceremony between cousin Lauren Ferrara and her partner Trish Bubnis.  We stayed with Sue and Michelle Kletter (Pam's niece and her wife), and their two children Jevny and Jasper.  They showed us a great time.

Seeing my own California family (sadly minus brother Steve and sister-n-law Charmaine due to an infection in Steve's foot) was a highlight for me.  The wine tasting on Saturday with Trish and Lauren was wonderful (especially the personal tour at Stagg's Leap), and their ceremony Sunday afternoon with family and friends on Trish's dad and step-mother's patio was amazing.   There was great wine, and food, loads of family and friends, and a beautiful ceremony crafted by Lauren and Trish--aided by Trish's three daughters.  As I looked out over my family and Trish and Lauren's friends, I saw my Aunt Pat (83--mom's only living sib), my white cousins, their kids--several of whom have brown partners or spouses, the tiny...newest member of our family 1/2 Anglo, 1/2 Mexican, black and Asian friends, young and old -- some gay couples, mostly straight pairs...everyone was happy and celebrating.  I felt the need to stand and say what a great celebration...the older generation full of love and acceptance for what they couldn't have imagined in their youth, the folks my age who were a mix of traditional and unexpected...the young ones whose living out loud in multi colors, multi sexual orientations, all together with such an outpouring of love.  It was really amazing.

Life in the Mountains:  has finally slowed and we've enjoyed some quiet days, and time with friends, deep conversations, photographic excursions, and hiking.  We helped our neighbors, the Matthies clan, celebrate the death and life of their dad Jim in a style that he would have loved!  Party on!

 Today is the first anniversary of the death of our friend Rich Tracy.  As Pat Motto did for the commemoration of the anniversary of her husband, Mike McGhee's death, Marla Tracy and her kids Brian, Kim, and Laura have invited friends and family to do something to honor, remember, focus on Rich's life.  Baring rain, Lee, Teri Rodgers (Chicago friend), Pam and I are going to hike Twin Sisters in the early, early a.m. and be on the summit for sunrise.  Rich loved the outdoors, hiking, and being an integral part of the sunrise, sunset and all of the time in-between...living with love and intention.

I had intended for this to be a short...Hey! we're back, but I've never been able to keep my writing short, so I hope your patience was not tried by this catch up.  From here on I'm going to try to post weekly until we leave for Turkey on September 20...I will try to keep the posts short.  Thanks for your patience and love...and so it goes from the mountains as they turn gently to fall.

Day 1 n 2

According to Sufism, a dervish who reaches "nothingness" divesting himself of possessions and attributes, reaches perfection..."When you make yourself nothing, you become omni..." being nothing also means being everything..." Nothingness" is a huge and profound wisdom. It contains knowing yourself and our place in relation to everything around you. (description of wall mural above our bed, Senatus Hotel, Istanbul.





Location:Istanbul, Turkey